William Chong

Email: loulouatbeach@xtra.co.nz; Website: www.eatout.co.nz/lou-lou-at-the-beach.html; Ph: 09 534 1989; 32 The Esplanade, Eastern Beach, Howick; breakfast $10-18, lunch $9-19, dinner mains $17-28.

Rating: A

Fabulous location, striking decor, though there’s room for improvement in the kitchen department.

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We dropped in for an early meal at Lou Lou’s and for a bit of a treat. The well-known ceiling was probably the first thing that caught our attention – hundreds of wine corks with flexi-lighting playfully winding around them. It’s apparently been there since the previous owners ran it as Oasis – C and I found ourselves gazing and the intricate shapes, patterns, signatures and whatnot splashed above our heads. It works particularly well with the rest of the decor, which seems to be decked out like an old sea schooner.

There’s not just a nautical theme, however: co-owner, Louisa Hayward is also an artist with a distinctive Matisse style, and her nom de plume extends to canvas paintings, self-branded Australian shiraz, and of course the restaurant name itself.

We order a couple of mains in the hopes of dashing off quickly: C goes for a spaghetti marinara with mixed seafood, while I opt for the grilled skin-on gurnard and a ginger sake sauce. The waiter is relaxed, and sports an Irish accent which resounds in jovial banter with the customer throughout the evening.

Our food is presented in oversize bowls that proudly proclaim Lou Lou’s technicolour style – it wouldn’t have surprised me if Hayward stepped out and told us that the crockery was hand-crafted and for sale. C’s spaghetti marinara was a fantastic medley of sumptuous scallops, taut calamari and a well-herbed tomato sauce.

Unfortunately, I was shortchanged on my fish when it was presented as a half-baked fillet without the expected crisp pan-fried skin. I’ll be honest – it looked like the inside of a battered fish from the local takeaways. Upon questioning the waiter, he admitted that the fish they had that day wasn’t skin-on to begin with, and kindly offered to replace my main with no extra charge. I decided to go for the same spaghetti and C was revelling in, and was equally satisfied.

All in all, we enjoyed the rest of our meal, and even enjoyed a bit of sticky date pudding to cap the night off. Pity about the fish fiasco – but the service was humble and helpful, and we definitely couldn’t fault that.

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N.B. Lou Lou’s has actually featured on restaurant entrepreneur John Palino’s show, “The Kitchen Job”. The episode review and a follow-up blog post at menumania.co.nz makes for pretty interesting reading.

I have a minor love affair with haloumi at the moment. (So does C, incidentally.)

It’s a Levantine cheese popular in many a Mediterranean restaurant (including that beautiful meal at Ima and Ibn). You can read more about its backstory at Wikipedia, but in my opinion the best thing about it is that you can fry it, like a steak.

We bought a block of it a couple of weeks back and thought it would be fun to try cooking it for ourselves. To ensure they fry properly and not melt, you need to cut them into reasonably-thick slices (about a 1-2 cm, or the thickness of your index finger), and use a high heat to get the beautiful seared look. Also, haloumi does not end well when microwaved (lunch leftovers the next day proved this).

For this dinner, we added radish slices, boiled potatoes, tomatoes, red onion (all from our trusty Foodbox) and served it with rice.

Yum!

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As an aside, we dropped by Barracuda in Bucklands Beach for our most recent date night. We didn’t eat too much to warrant a proper review, but I felt compelled to say a few things anyways:

• They had the worst antipasto platter I’ve come across in a restaurant setting. To be fair, it’s not a popular order, but C and I were given a hodge-podge of stuff that had seemed to have come from sitting in the fridge for weeks – vinegared cauliflower, olives, cold bread, some feta and cold sausage. My stomach definitely disagreed.
• They did serve us some tasty green-lipped mussels, drenched in a rich tomato pasta-style sauce. Which was tasty.

I’m sure others will have had more pleasant dining experiences – anyone else been before?

Ph: 082 232 211 (hotel); Lot 3631, Lorong 2, Rock Road, Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia; drinks from RM1.00; food from RM2.50

Rating: None given

Sometimes you just have to smile at God’s humorous sense of timing. I previously expressed a yearning for some Malaysian food in my recent writeup of Kaya + Toast – and here I am in Kuching, Malaysia, only weeks later and fortunate enough to reacquaint myself with some of the unique tastes from my childhood. My dad and I stopped by Fullyin Café for a welcome taste of unadorned, Chinese canteen cuisine. Fullyin Café is on the ground floor of what’s primarily a budget hotel, and attracts mostly local customers and perhaps visitors to the nearby Timberland medical centre.

The place is homely, in a tattered and weathered way, when we step in. Last month’s Chinese New Year decorations are still up, and there’s mellow Mando-pop wafting amongst the smell of spring onion and fried shallots. White half-wiped tables and gaudy red chairs are tessellated amongst simple cooking stalls serving Kuching favourites such as kolo mee, won ton soups, tomato kueh tiaw, various congees (each stall is subleased to different chefs and cooks). A drinks station in the back corner of the café serves up an assortment of hot and cold beverages. This is the quintessential food court setup that is replicated, in varying styles, in cities and suburbs all across Malaysia.

I ordered a tomato kueh tiaw to start off with – it’s long flat noodle strips buried in a less Watties, more watery sauce. I got a couple of baby prawns, spinach and squid in mine – but overall was sorely disappointed with the underwhelming portion size.

To remedy my unappeased appetite, I moved on to a bowl of wontons (called “kiaw” in the local dialect). They’re petite and inviting in the bowl, yet without the shallots, spring onion and chilli there’s not much else in terms of flavour. I ate it all but somehow it wasn’t completely satisfying, as if I was eating something bootlegged.

All in all it was an acceptable meal – whether I’d willingly go back again however is a different story. With the low cost of eating out in Malaysia it’s easy to shrug off mediocre food as value for money. I’m sure, however, that there’s plenty of other food outlets that would serve it tastier, and for the same price.

Website: http://www.skycitymetro.com/detail.asp?id=144; Ph: 09 309 3388; SkyCity Metro Food Court, 291-297 Queen St, Auckland Central; Email: kontak78@hotmail.com; drinks $3-5; mains from $8.

Rating: A

Prior to catching a movie at the Queen St cinemas, we looked around the Skycity Metro Food Court for something to eat. It’s not often we trailblaze into the city, and so we wanted to try something new. Just as we were about to look elsewhere, I spotted the boldly lit sign of Kaya + Toast. I instantly recognised the name as a feature of Malaysian cuisine; we had to check it out.

Once down a short flight of stairs, we looked around. The place combined a modern decor of bold reds, blacks and whites with visual displays of cultural paraphenalia uniquely Malaysian culture. Black-and-white photos of quaint Peninsular storefronts, hanging on the red-tiled walls. Comic books drawn by Malaysian cartoonist Lat, neatly stacked on a white formica bar counter. Jet-black tables with DIY hardwood benches. This place reminded me of childhood pilgrimages to the local kopitiam (coffee house).

While empty when we arrived, the 4-5 tables at Kaya + Toast quickly filled up, filling the air with familiar accents and exuberant talk in Manglish. It’s clear that Kaya + Toast is a hub for these expatriates, like myself, to hang out and remind themselves of food from their childhood, delicacies from their motherland.

Kaya + Toast’s menu throws together all the favourites from the traditional Malaysian coffeehouse. Food options include thick-cut toast and kaya spreads, chicken laksa dishes, and home-made fish curries. The beverages range from the popular Malaysian coffees and iced lemon teas, to drinks with names such as ‘I am diet’ (a mix of malty Horlicks and Nestum, a cereal drink) and ‘Charm’ (coffee and tea in the same cup). There’s an eerie familiarity to the menu, and in my opinion the coffeehouse cuisine here is as natural to the Malaysian psyche as fish and chips are to the Kiwi experience.

For my meal I tried the ubiquitous ‘nasi lemak’, a pseudo-platter of fragrant rice, anchovies, cucumber slices, peanuts and a hard-boiled egg. In Malaysia it’s normally eaten for breakfast, and mine came with an extra chicken drumstick. C stuck to a more modest bread and curry, which was well-flavoured and generously spiced.

While the food tasted great, I was a bit disappointed with the small portions and not-small pricing. It’s a far cry from Malaysian roadside stalls that offer more generous portions, and perhaps underscored the cost of importing an authentic Malaysian taste to Central Auckland. Nevertheless, with neigbouring BurgerKing pricing their calorie-laden combos at recessionary prices, Kaya + Toast could similarly do with a slight market correction.

Owner Vincent Chan opened this cafe in late 2008 and seems to have crafted a midcity hangout for homesick Malaysian students, and others well-acquanted with the eclectic kopitiam cuisine. Time will tell whether this place will draw in the uninitiated mainstream crowd and become a permanent fixture at the Skycity Metro food court.

Website: http://www.jesters-pies.co.nz; Ph: 09 533 8160; 20 locations around New Zealand; pies from $3.70, combos from $5.

Rating: A

(A=return customer, AA=worth going weekly, AAA=so awesome so awesome so awesome)

We took a bit of a breather from formal sit-down occasions for this date night, and dropped into Jester’s Pies in Howick for a relaxed dinner. Yes, they sell pies, as well as the associated drinks, wedges, and other tidbits hungry people add to their meals.

The main point of difference that these guys have are would be… well… their pies. They’re baked using proprietary equipment (they’re called “Jaffle pies”), with thin and puffed pastry that don’t seem to retain oil like the standard bakery pies do.

My favourite pie was the ‘Spud Deluxe’, which had a mix of beef mince, bacon and a cheesy potato mash filling. The pastry is definitely light and beautifully sweet. C enjoyed her baked butter-chicken varietal: the ‘Maharaja’ almost works like a mega-samosa (shaped like a pie, of course). The ingredients taste fresh and pleasantly savoury sans the greasiness.

While it’s true that the pies carry the National Heart Foundation endorsements, on examining their nutritional makeup their health benefits seem to be a bit of a commercial gimmick – I suspect they’re given because Jester’s a healthier choice of pie, rather than a healthier food choice in general. But having Heart ticks across your food paper bag is definitely the more interesting way to celebrate Valentine’s Day.

All in all, it was a, well, rounded meal. I had to talk C out of buying takeaway packs for the freezer, but we may just have to next time our appetites warrant it!

Website: http://ima-ibn.co.nz; Email: info@ima-ibn.co.nz; Ph: 09 300 7252; 57 Fort St, Central Auckland; breakfast $5-18, lunch $12-22, dinner mains $24-32.

Rating: AA+

(A=return customer, AA=worth going weekly, AAA=so awesome so awesome so awesome)

We like trying out Mediterranean food. This is because, in general, it’s far removed from our own ethnic cuisine experiences (i.e. chips and chopsticks, pies and chow mein). So after our last exciting experience with Mediterranean cuisine, I discovered Ima and Ibn, a gem of a restaurant tucked within the increasingly gentrified Fort St, oddly juxtaposed between convenience stores, parking buildings and worldly attractions of the red-light district type.

Co-owned by Israeli Yael Shochat and Palestinian Khaled Masroujeh, we were intrigued by their story (“Ima and Ibn” translates to “Mother and son” in Hebrew and Arabic respectively), as well as their dishes listed on their online menu: traditional, apolitical, and epitomising what Shochat terms the “cuisine of the sun”. It sounded fascinating; we decided to drop by for dinner.

The first thing you notice in this place is the warm, coppery glow, which comes, you discover, from patterned light panels in the ceiling. A painting of ‘Ima’, surrounded by a bevy of foodstuffs sits prominently on a backdrop of sienna and red-ochre walls. Dozens of recipe and cookbooks perched on wooden shelves hint at a lifelong passion, and it feels as if you’ve entered a space oddly familiar, and as homely as your own mother’s kitchen.

Their dinner menu was geared towards quality over quantity, with five entre̩s and five mains to choose from Рfor those well-acquainted with Mediterranean cuisine it might not have been too much to choose from. For us, however, we mulled excitedly over a veritable Med-spread collection: from North African brik (almost like a poached egg within a tuna-filled wonton) to Jewish-style chicken liver pat̩, from lamb kubeh on hummus to market fish and Israeli couscous. Our waiter Robin was affable and knowledgeable about the finer details of each dish.

For mains, C went for the Mezze platter. It looks modest in the photo, but the antipasto-style plate was huge. We loved experiencing the variety of flavours and tastes on offer. C’s favourite were the feta and spinach pockets, while I was quite partial to the chickpea balls and the Turkish hummus.

For my main, I ordered a Middle Eastern plate: an assortment of salads, Lebanese-style rice (fragrantly spiced and moistened with olive oil), and haloumi cheese on top. I’m always fascinated by haloumi (it’s the only cheese you can fry or grill because of its high melting point), and order it whenever I can.

We stuffed ourselves with all of the above, which unfortunately meant not giving desserts a try this time. But on another day I’m sure it’d be great to give the Middle Eastern dessert platter, or the Knafeh (a Palestinian sweet pastry thing), or even some homemade ice-creams and sorbets that they had on offer a good go.

All in all, Ima and Ibn seemed to have a genuine sense of a warmth, and a professional touch to their traditional meals. I have to admit it wasn’t easy on the wallet, but for such authenticity, freshness and an amazing variety of Mediterranean cuisine, C and I both agreed it was worth every cent.

Ph: 5328161; 9 Cook St, Howick 2014; mains $15-27.

Rating: A

(A=return customer, AA=worth going weekly, AAA=so awesome so awesome so awesome)

During the middle of 2008, the owners of Café Hasan Baba in Howick had the bright idea of setting fire to their own restaurant. It’s not as if their food was bad, and they did feature a belly dancer on Friday nights (perhaps that’s why it was burnt down…). Fiery demise aside, the good news is that the phoenix rising from the ashes is undoubtedly Fig and Olive, Howick’s latest Mediterranean-style restaurant.

When we arrived at 6, we were offered an outside table by the helpful and attentive waitress. The restaurant was otherwise fully-booked – not bad for a normal Friday night. A couple of nice paintings, clear roadside signage and the warm sienna/tan-coloured interior must all play their part in pulling in the crowds.

We began with some garlic breads to whet our appetites and take in the view. Looking across the bustling road to the graveyard at All Saints’ Church brought a touch of evening tranquility to the occasion, as we reflected on how “life is but a breath“.

For our mains, C played it safe and ordered a mushroom fettucine, while I opted for the mussaka with rice and salad. The food arrived quick – definitely prepped beforehand, but the portions were very generous. Both our dishes were packed with flavour: a hint of aubergine among the seasoned mince and potato made it just right for me. The mussaka’s dressing – a mix of yoghurt and chili – was particularly nice, though the bottom was a bit burnt. A creamy tomato sauce gave an interesting twist to C’s fettuccine, while the mushrooms were cut in an array of interesting shapes (much to her delight). I have to say though that her carb-source turned out better than my rice, which was a bit dry and Uncle Ben’s-like.

We closed off the meal with a vanilla ice cream sundae with rose water flavouring. The turkish delight taste was great, and it’s probably a dessert flavour worth replicating at home in future. Their other dessert offerings included creme caramel and baklava, which would have tempted us on another day.

Service was appropriately attentive and not pushy, and the staff seemed to cover all the tables reasonably well that evening. Fig and Olive is definitely a keeper, and we’ll look forward to trying more on their menu.

This is the start of a semi-regular series on food. But let me give you some context.

Every Friday, Cheryl and I try to set some time apart for ourselves – a “Date Night”. We’ll pray, read some Bible together, chat and exchange lame jokes, perhaps go through a few questions in some pre-marriage books we’ve got, and then we’ll do something fun (movies, games, etc.). In addition, we normally do dinner and take the opportunity to either try a new restaurant, revisit an old favourite, or cook at home.

As you know, I have a penchant for writing things up. So these posts should hopefully reflect the range of places we end up going to, from the $6 noodle bar right up to the revolving à la carte restaurant, and perhaps even a random cook-up recipe from the domestic front.

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Website: http://www.spiceiam.com; Ph: 92800928; 90 Wentworth Ave, Sydney 2010; lunch from $7.90, mains $14-26.

Rating: A
(A=return customer, AA=worth every cent, AAA=someone else must have paid for it)

Taking my now-usual route home from work, I chanced upon a small, well-presented restaurant – no fancy tables, plastic chairs packed in front of a small but bustling kitchen. Staff run between tables and clear them fast for the queue of patrons waiting outside patiently for a place. Apparently the foodies share this sense of regard, the LA Times rating it “one of the best 10 restaurants in Sydney”; the Morning Herald naming it “Sydney’s best Thai food – don’t go unless you expect the real thing, chillies and all”.

As most of you are well aware, I’m not a chilli aficionado – their dishes included basil pad kra prao (stir-fried with chilli, vegetables and Thai holy basil), their famed crispy pork belly (either in a pad prik king or with chinese broccoli and oyster sauce), and even signature dishes such as hoy tod (pan fried mussels with bean sprout and crispy flour served with chilli sauce) and whole fish dishes with even more spice.

I was in a hurry so I tried the safe option of chicken praram (stir-fried chicken and steamed kangkong vegetables topped with satay sauce, $13.90). The food came presented in gourmet-style plating removed from its hawker-table feel. The speed of delivery was amazing too – highlighting the amount of customers that come through each service a la wagamama. The satay flavour was delicious, not too peanuty – and the portion was large enough to eat without rice. The staff were a bit touchy about photos, but all in all the place was bubbling with a lively atmosphere. Probably would need to have spent more time (and money) to affirm without doubt its reputation, but overall spice i am was impressive nonetheless.

Incidentally, a table next to me had patrons matching a marvellously-presented whole fish main with an Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc all the way from good old New Zealand. Good to see some solid proof our savs are exportable.

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Richard and I dropped by GBS for lunch.  He tried their steak sandwich and found one piece of chargrilled sour dough drenched in jus.  My kingfish (market) seemed to have had the same jus, and the rocket salad (spelled rocquette on their stylised menus) was as green as Anne’s gables.  The steak was done well enough, and the kingfish had a soft, pleasing texture.  Other than the overdone beef-stock-like jus and the slightly dear lunch price ($20 for a lunch main is pressingly unaffordable), this central-Howick establishment seems to enjoy its well-patronised status.

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The best way to gauge a presentation of a dish: if the customer feels the need to take a photo of it, then you’re on the right track.  That’s all.

Just finished 206 notes – very exciting!   Now onto 305.

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